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EntomanMarch 30th, 2012, 2:11 am
Northern CA & ID

Posts: 2604
Louis -

Yes, the horizontal aspect of the loopwing is different and it's a very buggy looking fly. I have no doubt that it is successful. Certain flies just seem to work better and I will go with the intuitive "buggy" look every time.

What I question with this particular pattern is why it works. The answer to this question impacts the choice on when to use it. The idea of a "halo" in the surface film was mentioned as the reason behind the loop. Big question though is - what happened to the caddis wing? They are usually darker and more translucent than transparent, often with maculation. Most certainly aren't clear and bright.
"It's not that I find fishing so important, it's just that I find all other endeavors of Man equally unimportant... And not nearly as much fun!" Robert Traver, Anatomy of a Fisherman
MartinlfMarch 30th, 2012, 9:21 pm
Moderator
Palmyra PA

Posts: 3233
Yes, I've wondered about this too, and tied my Grannom Iris Caddis with a dun loop. The loop may depict the unfolding wing. The guy fishing the fly on the Delaware was fishing over fish feeding on Apple Caddis, so a light wing would make sense. I'll let you know how they fish if I get a chance to try the fly this season.
"He spread them a yard and a half. 'And every one that got away is this big.'"

--Fred Chappell
MartinlfJanuary 10th, 2013, 8:00 am
Moderator
Palmyra PA

Posts: 3233
Kurt, thanks for recommending this. There are a number of older threads that are worth revisiting, and this is certainly one. Recipe for your halo pupa? I'm curious about materials, though most can be guessed at.
"He spread them a yard and a half. 'And every one that got away is this big.'"

--Fred Chappell
EntomanJanuary 11th, 2013, 12:38 am
Northern CA & ID

Posts: 2604
You're welcome, and yes our thread library is a veritable treasure trove. I'll PM you about the materials.
"It's not that I find fishing so important, it's just that I find all other endeavors of Man equally unimportant... And not nearly as much fun!" Robert Traver, Anatomy of a Fisherman
5wtFebruary 24th, 2013, 9:29 am
Brush Valley PA

Posts: 1
Entoman,

I was looking for information on the grannom and found your discussion here. You have pics of a Reversed Peeker Nymph-Grannom #14 and Halo Pupa-#12. Would you kindly provide the material list and tying instructions? I could not find this information any place in the forum discussion. I fish Central PA limestoners and would like to try these patterns. Your discussion of the grannoms was great!
Thanks
Jerry
EntomanFebruary 24th, 2013, 5:52 pm
Northern CA & ID

Posts: 2604
Welcome to the forum, Jerry!

I'm happy to provide you the information. My only caution is that the larval design was worked out on the Lower Sac here in CA and it can flow as high as 20,000 cfs or more! Big water... I would suggest you omit the bead and tie this fly lightly weighted under the body for your waters. If spinning the hair in a dubbing loop proves too difficult, you can certainly tie the fly irresistible or muddler style, spinning directly on the bare hook. You can then weight the leader with shot to get the depth you need. If the larval cases you are trying to imitate aren't dramatically square shaped, you can use turkey tail or peacock herl for perhaps even better case simulation. Regardless, I feel the important characteristics are its orientation and the flexible body sticking out of the case.

Halo Pupa

Size: 12 - 18

Hook: Tiemco 3761 or 9300

Thread: Uni 8/0 use matching color for bodies of lighter versions.

Shell (opt): turkey tail quill

Rib: Monocord color to compliment, doubled in the larger sizes (chartreuse on the grannom)

Body: Buggy Nymph brand or Scintilla blends according to version (brownish olive on the grannom)

Thorax: Buggy Nymph or Scintilla blend used for body mixed half with brown

Legs: 6 game hen or pheasant tail fibers, colored to compliment

Swimmerettes: knotted pheasant tail fibers, colored to compliment

Wing stubs: Swiss straw

Collar: antron yarn (Aunt Lydia’s)

Antennae: stiff guard hairs or microfibbetts

Head: mixed dubbing to match natural or twisted pheasant tail fibers

Notes: Materials are listed in order of their application. The optional shell is used for two-toned pupa like Grannom. Overall, the best legs and swimmerettes come from a golden pheasant tail. Its golden brown color matches most pupal legs perfectly. The legs are tied beard style body length and the swimmerettes are tied in one to a side but substantially longer so that when pulled straight extend well beyond the bend. The Swiss straw should be spread open folded linearly (doubled over) and trimmed to size smaller than hook gap width (a one inch section will give you enough to work with). Now fold it in the middle and tie this in over the top of the hook shank and over the top of the hanging thread. Moisten the tip of the looped straw to soften it for easier compression at the tie in point. Pull them down, secure with 4 or 5 wraps and trim both underneath to the right length at the same time. The collar is made by cutting a section of yarn to the right length and thinned to the right amount. Create a dubbing loop and stick the fibers in at a right angle and spread out about an inch or so. Lightly spin, making sure the fibers stay horizontal without the tips getting trapped. Wrap a couple of turns stroking the fibers between wraps, like you would a soft hackle. The antennae perform a very important function by helping the fly to ride upright. They act like outriggers. The tie in position is very important. They should be tied in long and identically mounted up and out to the sides. The important caddis have fairly blocky heads with a very noticeable thin neck separating it from the thoracic structures. Tie a blocky head and whip finish in the neck area. The pheasant tail fibers are rubbed with head cement and twisted with the thread before wrapping. This makes for a very durable and realistic insect head with tiny little spikes on it, much like the natural. The number of fibers depends on fly size. Dubbing works fine as well, though not as long lasting. The example shown matches our Mother's Day Caddis out here. Vary them to match your bugs.


Reversed Peeker Nymph - Grannom

Size: 10 - 14

Hook: Tiemco 3761

Bead: (Opt.): Black brass sized to case of natural

Weight: lead or substitute just small enough to shove into bead, full body wrap

Thread: Uni 8/0, color unimportant

Body: anton yarn plies, melted at tip

Legs; Emu barbules just up the feather from the spikey ones, (those are reserved for the bigger October caddis)

Case: fine deer hair (I prefer coastal) spun in a dubbing loop and trimmed square with a slight taper towards the bead.

Notes: Materials are listed in order of their application. Start wrapping the hair at the back of the fly and finish with a whip up underneath the bead. Trim with a razor blade. Scissors are incapable of getting the clean square look. Mark the case up with felt pens to match natural case color. Various amounts of brown, olive and black seem to do the job. Hit the top of the peeking body with a little olive if you want. Use two yarn plies, 3 for the size 10



"It's not that I find fishing so important, it's just that I find all other endeavors of Man equally unimportant... And not nearly as much fun!" Robert Traver, Anatomy of a Fisherman
MartinlfFebruary 5th, 2016, 8:47 pm
Moderator
Palmyra PA

Posts: 3233
Adding this thread to the "Best of the Forum" group, I'll note that I've used the Iris Caddis a number of times in recent years to good effect. It has worked very well on some hard fished waters, and I've developed a great deal of confidence in it as an emerger. I've primarily used it for tan and emerald caddis, not for grannoms, though.
"He spread them a yard and a half. 'And every one that got away is this big.'"

--Fred Chappell
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