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|Summer_doug||February 28th, 2018, 3:31 am|
The thaw appears to be on in Michigan and I am getting antsy; however, trout season is still a few months away on some of my favorite streams so I have undertaken my first build.
I am building a fiberglass rod rated between a 1 and 2 weight with a very slow action. It'll probably be used for bluegill (gasp) and small bass on some local ponds, but maybe the occasional brookie as well. It's persimmon with garnet wraps and yellow for the hook keeper and tip-top. The reel seat is birdseye maple. When I finish, I'll post pictures (I'm half a guide in right now). Wbranch (Matt) has been really gracious in providing additional help throughout the process (and answering other questions that I have).
How much value do you guys place on the aesthetics of a fly rod? If it's something you value, what colors, reel seats, inserts, etc. are your favorite?
PS - Wrapping the first guide from the top is a real pain in the rear!
|Wbranch||February 28th, 2018, 9:49 am|
How much value do you guys place on the aesthetics of a fly rod?
If the blank was initially expensive, $200 - $300, then the aesthetics are very important to me. It makes sense to use attractive and high quality hardware when you are starting with a high end blank. On rods #3 - #5 I would always use nickel silver reel seats with fancy wood barrels. On #3 rods I almost always use just a cap and sliding ring. On #4 - #5 I would 80% of the time use a nickel silver up lock or down lock reel seat with nice wood. If the #4 weight rod was less than 9' long I might still go with the cap and sliding band hardware. On #6 and heavier rods I usually go with a good quality anodized aluminum reel seat. Either all aluminum or aluminum hardware and a wooden insert. On salt water rods of any length I always use anodized aluminum.
If I am building for a client I typically won't make any suggestions unless they ask me for recommendations. If I am building a personal rod the sky was the limit. I used to use Fuji SIC ceramic strippers and Hopkins & Hopkins DLC (Diamond Like Carbide) snakes or TiN (titanium nitrite) strippers and snakes. I hate the traditional loop style hook keeper and for personal rods didn't use a hook keeper. For client rods I would recommend a Fuji folding hook keeper.
I used silk thread to wind some rods but the thread breaks so easily that I stopped using it. I have no issues with size A nylon thread and it is available in dozens of colors.
Note: I had a business license and therefore got all my blanks and building materials with at least a 40% discount. I never paid $200 for a blank. That would be the manufacturers pricing.
|Catskill fly fisher for fifty-five years.|
|Partsman||March 2nd, 2018, 5:52 pm|
|summer doug , I have built a couple of fiberglass rods as of late and have purchased a custom fiberglass 4 wt. from Chris Barclay. I built a tl Johnson 6 ft. 3 wt. fiberglass rod and Steffen brothers 8 ft. 3/4 weight. I love both blanks, but really like the Steffens. There is a gentleman on the internet ray lee who turns all kinds of custom woods and makes great slide band reel hardware. I used agate strippers from golden witch which are really cool. I have used persall silk which makes beautiful wraps but what a work out. This is something that can be very addictive, so have fun and go to the fiberglass flyrodders web site.|
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